Competition: The act of competing; rivalry for supremacy, a prize; blowing your adversary out of the water in a test of skill or ability. Late last year, Turbo magazine received some exciting news that Castrol Oil and our wonderful Source Interlink Media proposed an idea of running a "friendly" competition among seven of the top Source Interlink Media publications. The initial rules handed down to each of the teams during the preliminary stages were stated to be as simple, non-competitive event that editors could enjoy. The rules stated each team was to build an engine of their choice, produce the most horsepower and torque per liter, and last throughout the entire event without blowing up. Simple and to the point, right? So they thought. Corporate media had one idea of how to run a challenge and regulate us on how to even the playing field, but for us editors we were playing a completely different ballgame. Funny as it seems, they obviously underestimated the fact that we live and breathe in the automotive performance world and in that world, no one thrives better than us in competition--not to mention the amount of men jacked up on testosterone involved in this event. Elliott Moran, Source Interlink Media's events coordinator, jotted some simple guidelines to abide by as the Turbo magazine team quickly tore into poorElliott with a battery of questions a month before we finalized our engine and builder.

A few weeks after our eventful meeting, we received an updated rules list and a firm warning from our managing editor to take our competitive level down a few notches. Obviously we turned a deaf ear to what Elliott said. While the new interpretations of the rulings continued to have a series of gaping loopholes--which brought smiles to our faces--we searched high and low, finally narrowing our engine builder down to SP Engineering located in the City of Industry. SP Engineering and their knowledgeable staff are regarded as one of the most respected tuner shops in California. Over the past 10 years, SP has built their reputation on tuning and catered to some of the fastest and horsepower hungry vehicles to date. SP Engineering, known as one of the industries trendsetters back in 1996, owned the exclusive bragging rights to building and dynoing their first high-horsepower Supra 2JZ with a simple piggyback fuel management system. The vehicle owned by the now-infamous Ken Henderson laid down 666 whp using a HKS GCC and VPC management system. Eight years after the triple-six power figure, Ken's Supra made headlines on the Nov. '04 cover of Turbo, delivering an amazing 1,110 whp while periodically driven on the streets. SP set the standard again in 1997 using the GCC and VPC layout, delivering 700 whp on another customer's car using a slew of bolt-on products. "We accomplished this power level without even touching the engine internals or even lifting the heads. Back then crazy high-octane gasoline was nearly nonexistent," says Alex Shen, SP Engineering owner and hard-core performance enthusiast. In 2000, SP was up to their tricks once again, benchmarking the 2JZ power limits with 822 whp on a daily driven Supra with the aid of a simple piggyback fuel management unit.

From 1,100hp Supras to 1,000hp Skylines, there seems to be no limit to what Alex and his team of mechanics can accomplish. Our initial plans before talking with Alex was to initially build a 2JZ motor in hopes of eclipsing the 1,000hp marker on 100-octane fuel. The five-digit horsepower numbers were a realistic goal that have been tried and tested throughout the years. The 3.0-liter mill seemed to fit the bill for our build but we ran into a series of problems within the competition rules that would affect our winning outcome. If we decided to stroke the factory displacement to a 3.4-liter and were given the penalty of using a forced-induction setup by a multiple of two, we'd divide our target horsepower of 1,100 and get 161.7 hp/per liter. Not a bad number to work with but if our competitors decide to build a 4G63 or SR20DET engine, the 2.0L engine multiplied by 2 and divided by a target goal of 650 hp would net them 162.5 hp/per liter. Close to half our 2JZ horsepower figure but a better horsepower/per liter ratio, which would give them the winning edge.

So what is a team hell-bent on taking home the winning trophy and bragging rights to do? It's rather simple. We take our engine selection to the next level and build a noteworthy RB26DETT and decimate the competition. If high-horsepower 2JZ buildups are regarded as the staple within the SP repertoire, believe it or not, their knowledge of the RB26DETT comes in even stronger. If we target somewhere in the 1,000hp range and receive all the parts we have been talking about, its not hard to make this a realistic goal because in all truth, it's been done before. It's typical to see 1,300 to 1,400 hp cranked out from the RB26DETT. When we built my RB26 a few years back I didn't even go crazy on the engine so we weren't really pushing the engine. My R33 put down 980 whp and wasdynoed while running a hollinger transmission so I'm not even worried about having to push this motor. With a smile and look of confidence Alex continues by saying Hirofumi Kondo, our chief mechanic was working at Blitz Japan for eight years before he began full time at SPEngineering. Turbocharging, supercharging and computer tuning is Hiros specialty so I have full confidence in him. Hiros been installing and tuning the HKS V-Pro with exceptional knowledge because he's been there and done that for some time now with an advantage of over four years of tuning ahead of U.S. tuners.

While all details on the engine aren't finalized as this article goes to press, one thing we're certain is that the 2.6L mill will be stroked to a 2.8 displacement and for good reasons. The theory behind stroking the RB rather than going with the factory displacement comes down to thefactory crank. The crankshaft isn't fully counterweight, Alex says. When you buy a stroker kit it comes with a full counterweight crankshaft, but not from factory not like the 2JZ. That's the weak point of the RB. The powerband with the RB26DETT possesses a broader scale power range compared to the 2JZ powerplant at the same horsepower level. If you overlap a RB26 to a 2JZ dyno sheet it will become apparent the major differences with the power curve. The 2JZ powerband is so short; it's crazy in comparison to the RB26DETT. This becomes a major factor when determining the top point's leader in the Power Under the Curve category for the Castrol Syntec Top Shop Challenge.

One word of advice to our competitors: We're in it to win boys, so you best pack your bags now before it's too late. Stay tuned as we begin our RB26DETT buildup in the next issue.

wwwSyntecTopShopChallenge.com

For months on end leading to the debut of the newest Mitsubishi Evolution, anticipation ran high among automotive enthusiasts as they sat patiently licking their chops for their chance to purchase the new Evo x. when the time had finally arrived, interestingly enough the added hype we had seen within the past few months has been met with a flurry of mixed emotions and cautious buyers.

Green Giant
Word on the street had quickly risen that Evo x's new 4B11 powerplant used a smaller exhaust camshaft with less lift and duration. Adding to the troubling news was Mitsubishi's new outlook on going environmentally green that was relevant even on the new Evo, as they implemented environmentally friendly exhaust valves that eliminated the once sodium-filled valves found on the Evo Ix. These minor changes paled in comparison to the shocking news that Mitsubishi's cast-iron block, which offered exceptional durability in all previous models, was replaced with a more conventional open-deck aluminum-alloy setup.

Preliminary news for the Evo x was looking grim for Evo enthusiasts and those reporting on the findings. Or at least that was until we received exciting news that the 4B11 engine had been carefully reverse engineered by Tomei Powered of Japan. Tomei engineers have diligently studied the 4B11's internal design in order to fully educate themselves before even attempting to lift a finger in fabricating high-performance aftermarket products. Now that's what you call dedication, folks. From the valvesprings to the piston design, Tomei Powered has carefully analyzed and recorded every conceivable part on the engine to the minute detail with some positive results. Prepare yourself as the Tomei engineers spit knowledge and breakdown the newest Mitsubishi 4B11 engine while comparing it to the previous 4G63 powerplant in their official Evo x Technical Report.

The Obvious Difference
Following the public release of the Mitsubishi Evo x, Tomei Powered quickly acquired and disassembled the newest 4B11 powerplant to begin their research. Tomei's first step toward research proved crucial for the development of their own 4B11 products as it involved familiarizing and discovering the basic characteristics of Mitsubishi's new engine design. Another aspect of this research included a side-by-side comparison with its predecessor, the 4G63. This comparison was significant for the Tomei engineers as it provided further insight on how this engine is going to be modified and its potential capabilities. The first and most obvious change from the 4G63 to the new 4B11 was the rocker arm-type valvetrain being replaced with the 4B11's direct acting unit and the timing belt being replaced with a silent-chain setup. The MIvEC feature, which was only available on the intake side on the latest version of the 4G63, was now available on both intake and exhaust on the 4B11, offering a wider range in powerband while keeping eco-friendly with emissions was the general focus for Mitsubishi engineers when building the engine.

Bearings Adopted Onto Exhaust Side Cam Journals
Several devices equipped on this engine indicate that the engineers at Mitsubishi have paid particular emphasis on the 4B11's oiling system design. On the exhaust side camshaft, the No. 1 cam journal was equipped with bearings since it's furthest from the oil line. This bearing adaptation was implemented to increase reliability and decrease friction within the cam journals. Thicker oil lines were also installed to supply an increased amount of oil due to the existence of the MIvEC system.

Highly Efficient Cylinder Head Engineered For Low Emissions And Power
The cylinder design was well thought-out and engineered by Mitsubishi with balance in mind. The design included engineering an area where the piston top geometrically matches well with the combustion chamber design. By looking at the piston design, it doesn't resemble the conventional forced-induction profile, but looks to be designed to that of a low-emissions engine. The intake and exhaust ports have large-diameter ports for improved efficiency. The low-emissions-producing design was also made with the MIvEC feature in mind.

Bigger Valves And Plugs With Decreased Diameter
Upon measuring the cylinder valves, the 4B11 consists of 35mm intake and 29mm exhaust valves. The 5.5mm valve stems reveal that the new valves are definitely larger than that from the 4G63. with these increased factors, the spark plug size was decreased to optimize valve seat and spark plug hole clearance. Compared to an sR unit with the same bore, the intake is shown to be bigger by 1mm, while the exhaust valve is smaller by 1mm.

Exhaust Valve Designed With The Environment In Mind
The exhaust camshaft was found to have less lift and angle than the previous 4G63 model. The objective of the 4B11 camshaft was designed to produce a cleaner exhaust gas while exhibiting good power output with the help of MIvEC. The sodium-filled valves found in the 4G63 have now been replaced with standard surface-treated units, which were considered for environmental reasons. Tomei Powered engineers have reason to believe a drawback with the 4B11 exhaust valves may be prone to heat damage since the seat rings and valve guides weren't manufactured with copper materials.

Camshafts With No Rocker ARMS
The rocker arm setup was tossed aside for a direct acting configuration. This new setup means that there are less moving components needed for operation, allowing for a compact design with less mechanical trouble and friction, which the camshaft lobes benefit from the most. The camshaft specs measured in at 254-degrees intake with 9.4mm lift and 224-degrees exhaust with 8.2mm lift. valve lifters, which were measured at 35mm diameter and 23.9mm height, were combined with shims that allow valve clearance adjustments also found on the new 4B11 engine. For those who consider altering this area in the near future, Tomei engineers have found the lift can be raised 2mm and the valvesprings and lifter nose should clear-if the base circle has been kept standard.

Lightweight Valvesprings
The lifters, retainers and valves were noticeably different in design compared to previous engine models with the focus of lightweight engineering in mind. Tomei engineers found that the valves have plenty of room from bottoming out but the 4B11 spring rates are rated fairly low. Therefore, in terms of tuning aspects, these might need to be replaced to a stiffer aftermarket set depending on the camshaft profile and lift.

Mivec On Intake And Exhaust
The 4B11 was engineered with clean, environmentally friendly emissions while delivering a significant amount of power. The MIVEC feature (4B11 engine uses MIVEC on both intake and exhaust variable valve timing systems) is mainly responsible for this great balance of two opposite features. Even though the Evo Ix 4G63 was equipped with the variable valve timing on the intake side only, the 4B11 proves to have added improvements on low to midrange torque. The MIVEC is controlled with an ordinary vein that partitions two different chambers managed with two different pressures.

4G63 Timing Belt Replaced With Silent Chain
A silent chain instead of the traditional timing belt powers the 4B11. Chains are beneficial over belts due to the lack of friction loss and increased longevity. The front timing cover consists of a single unit not split into upper and lower sections, which create a problem when servicing or performing modifications such as head/block resurfacing or a headgasket change. Tomei engineers found that compression changes can be more troublesome when altering the 4B11 engine.

Metal Headgasket
The headgasket is measured at 0.9mm thick and consists of a five-layer laminated-metal type. due to the laminated headgasket design, proper head seating issues may occur after modifying the engine.

Stretch-Type Head Bolt Angle Tightening Method (Torque To Yield Torque Procedure)
The torque to yield method used elastic stretch-type bolts to tighten the 1mm length head bolts. since the engine has an aluminum block, the bolts are longer with increased torque specs. The washers on the bolts are fixed except for No. 1 for the ease of service and maintenance.

To be cont...
Stay tuned for part two as we move into the bottom-end cylinder block and turbo system and see what Tomei engineers have found when comparing the 4B11 setup to the 4G63.

Kaaz Corporation, manufacturer and supplier of limited slip differentials for street performance and racing across the globe, recently entered the world of automotive electronics with the debut of its visual data logging system dubbed the Race Monitor. The Race Monitor is designed as a true plug-and-play unit that allows the end user to capture video footage on the racetrack while recording data in real time. Although the Kaaz Race Monitor is deceptive in appearance with its simple box layout construction, this unique data logging system allows users to continuously monitor and record vehicle speed, engine revs, lap time, acceleration and deceleration and lateral g-force while driving or drifting on the track. The Race Monitor's video output source can even be connected to a car's TV or navigation screen, enabling the driver to view lap times without ever having to leave the comfort of the car.

While you rumble around your favorite track, the data-logged information is automatically processed through the Race Monitor and overlaid to a video camera (used as a recording device only) to replay at a later time. Although the Race Monitor isn't a true data logger system-it doesn't use specialized software and cannot be connected to a laptop or PC computer-its monitoring of real-time data through the Race Monitor and into your portable camcorder offers detailed information for drivers trying to improve driving technique or check the balance and condition of the car during heated runs. Included within the kit is a state-of-the-art Sony 27-megapixel CCD camera that works in conjunction with the video camera provided. The palm-sized CCD camera allows the unit to be mounted in virtually any area of the vehicle's cabin, ranging from the rollcage to a harness bar mount.

Obtaining a 12-volt source is as simple as plugging the provided power cord into the cigarette lighter. For the more hard-core enthusiasts who have removed their cancer-causing apparatus, they can use the direct connection method by cutting and splicing the power and ground cables on the cigarette plug cord to tap directly into the IGN or ACC power supply.

While the Kaaz Race Monitor has been successfully designed to work with factory ECM and a majority of stand-alone units, the only stand-alone system that poses any problems is the A'PEXi Power FC. The Power FC displays a different signal that renders the Race Monitor incompatible at the moment. Kaaz engineers are currently in the process of engineering the Race Monitor to make the two communicate. The Kaaz Race Monitor is sold as a complete kit that comes with the monitor unit, GPS antenna (used in cars without a speed input wire to the ECU), CCD camera, lap sensor, PLAP II/III adapter cable, zip ties, wires, connectors and detailed instructions.

Kaaz Corporation, manufacturer and supplier of limited slip differentials for street performance and racing across the globe, recently entered the world of automotive electronics with the debut of its visual data logging system dubbed the Race Monitor. The Race Monitor is designed as a true plug-and-play unit that allows the end user to capture video footage on the racetrack while recording data in real time. Although the Kaaz Race Monitor is deceptive in appearance with its simple box layout construction, this unique data logging system allows users to continuously monitor and record vehicle speed, engine revs, lap time, acceleration and deceleration and lateral g-force while driving or drifting on the track. The Race Monitor's video output source can even be connected to a car's TV or navigation screen, enabling the driver to view lap times without ever having to leave the comfort of the car.

While you rumble around your favorite track, the data-logged information is automatically processed through the Race Monitor and overlaid to a video camera (used as a recording device only) to replay at a later time. Although the Race Monitor isn't a true data logger system-it doesn't use specialized software and cannot be connected to a laptop or PC computer-its monitoring of real-time data through the Race Monitor and into your portable camcorder offers detailed information for drivers trying to improve driving technique or check the balance and condition of the car during heated runs. Included within the kit is a state-of-the-art Sony 27-megapixel CCD camera that works in conjunction with the video camera provided. The palm-sized CCD camera allows the unit to be mounted in virtually any area of the vehicle's cabin, ranging from the rollcage to a harness bar mount.

Obtaining a 12-volt source is as simple as plugging the provided power cord into the cigarette lighter. For the more hard-core enthusiasts who have removed their cancer-causing apparatus, they can use the direct connection method by cutting and splicing the power and ground cables on the cigarette plug cord to tap directly into the IGN or ACC power supply.

While the Kaaz Race Monitor has been successfully designed to work with factory ECM and a majority of stand-alone units, the only stand-alone system that poses any problems is the A'PEXi Power FC. The Power FC displays a different signal that renders the Race Monitor incompatible at the moment. Kaaz engineers are currently in the process of engineering the Race Monitor to make the two communicate. The Kaaz Race Monitor is sold as a complete kit that comes with the monitor unit, GPS antenna (used in cars without a speed input wire to the ECU), CCD camera, lap sensor, PLAP II/III adapter cable, zip ties, wires, connectors and detailed instructions.

Most articles about brake upgrades begin the same way. Someone starts off telling you how important stopping is and how installing bigger and better brakes once horsepower's been increased is a good thing. It is. But we'll take things a step further. Install that big-boy GT turbo and crank up the boost without addressing your cheesy rear drums or chunked-up rotors and, well, let's just say nobody's going to mistake you for somebody smart. And while no one's accusing us of being smart, early 1G DSM big-brake upgrades just make sense.

The Problem
Diamond Star Motors realized a few improvements were in order for the first-generation Eclipse, Talon and Laser not long after they started selling them. The '90 model's ECU only survived one year before they replaced it. Someone decided to change the cam angle sensor in 1991 also. And the DSM boys figured slightly better braking was in order for some models come 1991 and again for others in 1993. Well at least nobody can blame them for not paying attention. There are two things that suck about the '90-'92 front brakes: they could be bigger, and they're a single-piston setup.

The Solution
As with a lot of things, the solution lies within the OEM itself. Since Mitsubishi didn't mess with the hubs when upgrading, swapping over the slightly larger '93-94 DSM brake setup is relatively easy. But first, here is why they're better. The newer rotors are larger, measuring in at 10.9 inches across as opposed to 10.1 inches-almost an inch. Of course this allows for additional swept area for the pads, 22 percent to be hard and fast, making braking easier and more effective. The '93 brakes also feature twin-piston calipers while the older pieces are a single-piston configuration. It's the pistons that react against the pads once pedal pressure's applied; the more pistons, the less pedal effort and, again, more effective braking.

Where to Get Them
No, there aren't a whole lot of '93-'94 DSMs floating around with decent front brakes that also happen to be for sale. Face it, the car's old. We have. Fortunately there are a few unexpected cars we can rob such brake setups from. The '91-plus non-turbo Dodge Stealth and Mitsubishi 3000GT come to mind first. Yea, the turbo ones are huge but they don't fit. And then there's the '91-'92 Galant VR-4 and the '92-'96 Diamante, which also both have the same twin-piston, 10.9-inch front brakes. About the only difference between any of these are the different bleeder valves between some models, which means nothing more than you're either going to grab an 8mm wrench or a 10mm one when you go to bleed them. Oh, and you'll also want to watch out for some of the 2G DSM calipers that feature a banjo bolt provision as opposed to the female-threaded ones you need. Even if you score the wrong ones the added work isn't worth the effort.

How it's Done
Like we said, new-condition rotors, calipers and pads from the early '90s aren't exactly easy to come by. As such, we weren't surprised when our eBay pieces arrived; the rotors were warped, of course the pads were shot but fortunately the calipers were in good condition, which is really all we care about. EBC brakes helped us out with the rest. Up front we swapped over a pair of EBC's Ultimax BlackDash USR slotted rotors. Slotted rotors are good because they help remove debris from the braking surface, but slots often lead to noisy stops. EBC's progressive angle and slightly smaller grooves keep the noise down and are designed to keep pad wear as flat and parallel as possible. It's a good thing the older DSM's brake dust shields clear the larger rotors...barely; this prevents us from having to yank the hubs off.

The two-piston calipers bolt on easy enough, provided you've got the corresponding caliper brackets to go with them. The '93 and up calipers aren't bolting on to the older, smaller brackets, no matter how long you stare at them though. The remaining hardware's basically the same but the twin-piston brake pad shims are different, so make sure the guy selling you everything includes them otherwise your pads will probably fall out of place. And then there are the pads. EBC also set us up with their Redstuff Superstreet pads. They've got five different compounds to choose from with the red ones falling somewhere in the middle in terms of part-time track use and good streetability. The Redstuff pads are made of a Kevlar-fiber material enhanced with ceramic particles. Yes, the old Redstuff pads were also made of Kevlar but didn't have the ceramic part, as a result, they didn't last as long and were comparatively louder. About the only downside is the extensive break-in period, which is in some cases as much as 1,000 miles. We are, in fact, still working on ours.

We couldn't outfit the front without upgrading the rear brakes at the same time. The back is fairly uneventful though, as there aren't any size upgrades from the OEM's. The Stealth/3000GT pieces are commonly thought to be bigger but aren't; they're actually the same size yet exhibit more than 15 percent less swept pad area. They also feature an entirely different, remote-mounted parking brake system that just doesn't work here anyways. No matter though, it's the fronts that do most of the work and it isn't like the rears are exactly puny. As such, we went ahead with the same EBC rotor/pad combo out back as we did up front.

We also decided to upgrade the aging rubber brake lines with steel-braided, Teflon-lined ones from Goodridge. The new lines contribute to our new, firmer brake pedal feel and are one of the few things that'll outlast the car itself, which is after all, never a bad thing.

Okada Projects has gained popularity among automotive performance tuners across the globe with their highly effective Plasma Direct ignition system. The Plasma Direct system improves spark energy over factory coilover plug applications and has been proven successful in numerous vehicles campaigned in time attack and Super Lap Battle race events throughout Japan. One example is the ultra-competitive M-Speed R34 GT-R, which battled against Japan's elite tuner cars at the season finale time attack in December. The M-Speed Skyline, equipped with the Okada Project Plasma Ignition, dominated the circuit and took the title of '07 Tsukuba Time Attack champ as the canary yellow GT-R blasted an amazing 54.4 seconds at the Tsukuba circuit.

At a time and age when horsepower rules the street, the demands of delivering sufficient fuel and spark becomes a critical factor when looking to increase horsepower and torque beyond the factory ignition's status quo. The most common occurrences among high-horsepower vehicles are typically intermittent misfires, which are almost always caused by a weak spark or conditions of a lean fuel mixture. Ignoring these telltale symptoms can lead to a loss in horsepower and erratic performance, but in the long term can ultimately send your engine spiraling toward engine detonation and a costly rebuild if not addressed properly. With most factory ignition systems, we find the ignition energy to decline rapidly as dwell time falls below optimal levels. The drop in dwell time causes an inadequate time between sparks to fully recharge the coil and ignite the air/fuel mixture to fire that cylinder, generating a miss.

Plasma Direct is a factory replacement ignition coil system that uses a high-power amplifier built into the unit to increase secondary spark current by 100 percent-two times as much as OEM. The system produces four times more spark energy for the initial spark discharge than the average stock coils while also generating a highly effective multi-spark discharge of 10 sparks throughout the powerband. Compared to the factory coil that delivers a single-spark discharge, the Plasma Direct's multi-spark discharge and improved spark energy yields improved ignition and greater combustion efficiency, all of which is beneficial for those driving high-horsepower vehicles. Using an oscilloscope, we hooked up a factory coil pack to monitor its performance. The factory secondary ignition spark reached a maximum of 60mA before quickly leveling out. Whereas testing the same vehicle with an Okada Plasma coil pack revealed the secondary spark current reaching 140mA and showed a wave pattern present in the multi-spark oscillation that improves combustion and increases ignition spark. Okada Projects representative Akira Sato says the main importance with the Plasma Direct ignition is the change in current capacity and that voltage isn't important when looking to create an increase in energy spark. The oscilloscope shows the Okada Plasma Booster Direct goes from a range of 10 amps to -10 amps, which is twice that of the factory unit. The secondary current also reaches 100mA, which is twice that of the factory 50mA current, while also making an AC discharge not possible on the factory setup.

For all intensive testing purposes, we found a perfect candidate to run the new Okada Projects Plasma Direct ignition coil packs. A few phone calls in search of a Honda S2000 netted us with quite an interesting find. Gary Castillo of Design Craft Fabrication based in Lake Forest, Calif., offered a F20C powerplant engine transplanted into a Nissan S13 chassis that was dubbed the S13K. The vehicle and engine buildup was covered in a previous issue of Import Tuner magazine and was successfully completed a few months prior to the '08 drift season. The F20C powerplant was now turbocharged and generating 300-plus whp. The 2.0L mill is equipped with an AEM engine management system, 750cc injectors, Garrett GT2835 turbo, BC camshafts and a custom turbo kit built by Design Craft Fabrication. Strapped to the dyno, the turbocharged F20C, boosting at 14 psi, netted 325 hp and 330 lb-ft of torque while still using the factory coil packs.

Armed with a 10mm socket and an Allen wrench, the F20C plug cover was removed and set aside to expose the four 10mm bolts holding the factory coil packs in place. The bolts were easily removed and the plugs were unclipped before each pack was replaced with our new Okada Projects Plasma Direct system. Within eight minutes of swapping out the factory packs, we had the new Okada units in place. The S13 was spun on the dyno for its second run to see if the Plasma Direct was true to its claims. The dyno charts revealed an increase of 9-peak hp and an amazing 17 lb-ft of torque. At 4,350 rpm we saw an increase of 7 hp and 17 lb-ft of torque as our gains became more significant at a higher rpm, where the F20C transitions from low to high cam phase at 5,300 rpm. From 5,540 rpm to 6,900 rpm, we find the F20C reaping the benefits of the Plasma Direct system with a consistent gain of 7 hp and 5 lb-ft of torque. While horsepower gains were a definite plus in our books, we found the Okada Projects Plasma Direct to prove itself worthy, as the new coilover plug setup helped clean up our forced induced machine at a higher rpm where we were prone to stumbling previous to the installation.

OK, you looked at the title and thought to yourself what!? We don't blame you. But engine build stories have been done over and over again. When you've been doing stories on engines for this long, it's hard to think of new ones to do. But what better to work with than the bastard child of Nissan motors. The KA24DE has been long neglected for the SR20DET and, more recently, the VQ35DE as an alternative powerplant for the S-chassis car. But there has always been a group of true believers in the KA. So in deciding on a new engine build series, we landed on using the KA24DE and sought out Naoto Negishi of NPD to aid with the build. Owning a 240SX for his first car (in 1994), he has been a longtime fan of the KA. He has always preached to us the power of the KA as we sat quietly chiding him along and comparing the "truck motor" to the more performance-orientated SR20DET. Naoto and his passion for all things KA24DE has been recently developing parts for the KA under his company NPD with some amazing results. Follow along as we begin our quest to eclipse the 700hp marker and take you through the build-up process and discuss how this project can be applied to your own motor build in the near future.

Our build will go into every aspect of the KA24DE engine-from the parts being used to addressing weaknesses in the motor. First, we will give an overview of the KA24DE, the bottom end parts we are going to be using and how to properly prep the stock bottom as it leaves for the machine shop. The overall target is 750 bhp at 8,000 rpm on the engine dyno. Yes, we know this sounds too good to be true but never say it can't be done in the world of high performance.

So, why a KA24DE? For starters, the155hp 2.4L engine comes in the USDM S13 and S14. The large number of Nissans running this engine plus the popularity of swaps (dumping in favor of a SR20DET), makes the engine readily available and cheap. You might say, "Honda SOHC D15B motors are plentiful too," but that doesn't make them good. While the single-cam Hondas are popular among diehard H-badge fanatics, they lack the 89mm stock bore like the KA24DE and cast-iron block and main caps that utilize a girdle design. So, out of the box, the KA24DE it is built to withstand some punishment. Before you jump to conclusions and ask yourself: "Besides a big engine what else is it good for?" The intake ports on the cylinder head are large from the factory and utilize a high-degree port angle. The valvetrain also utilizes a direct-bucket design. This means you don't have the problems of rockers popping out or failing like the SR20DET.

While we briefly covered the basics on why the KA24DE is an ideal candidate, we should also include the numerous issues associated with the motor. All in truth, if this was such a perfect motor everyone would be using it right? These sure are, but before we crank up the boost and try to peg the 750 marker we took the time to carefully analyze the engine and its downfalls starting with the bottom end. The cast pistons and weak rods were designed with no intention of taking any abuse. The media-type headgasket would definitely fall apart under any serious boost. The crankshaft is only half-counter balanced. The head bolts are a measly M10 (SR20DET is M12 and RB26DET is a M14).

Although the intake ports are decent in terms of flow, the exhaust ports are the direct opposite. They're flow restrictive and don't have a very good port angle. The cam gears are so small that you cannot utilize a veneer-type adjustable cam gear (slides for adjustment); you can only use a knock-pin type (moves to lock in a permanent position).

Although the SR and RB engines all use a direct-ignition-type system, the KA still uses a distributor type. It's obvious that the motor was not designed with high performance in mind. So what can be done to transform this block of stone into David? Well to begin with we decided that it has to get turbocharged. To do this, however, we would have to make sure the block could withstand the type of power we would want to see.

With nearly no aftermarket support for this engine, Naoto offered his KA24 wisdom and advice on what steps to take for the bottom-end build, starting with a set of his very own NPD-prototype KA24DE pistons. Their pistons are 90mm, 9.5:1 compression and made out of billet aluminum. NPD utilized a box-skirt design to cut back on the weight of the piston. Because of how long the stock stroke is (96mm) and our target rpm of 8,000, the overall piston speed would be high. NPD pistons were designed to reduce the overall rotating mass of the assembly, but keep the strength of the piston. Since the skirt is cut down, the pin is also shortened to save weight. NPD kept the piston at a 90mm bore in order to have ample piston ring selection.

The stock rods were tossed and replaced with a set of off-the-shelf BC Pro Series rods. In place of the half-counter stock crank, NPD has developed a fully countered billet crankshaft. The main and head bolts will be replaced with ARP studs from AMS. AMS developed an upgraded head stud, increasing the size to 11mm that requires machine work to the block and head. Any rotating parts that touch any metal surface will be WPC treated to reduce friction and improve overall strength. With this combination of parts, the engine should hold up to the extreme amount of power we'retrying to obtain.

Now that you have an overall idea of what the build is about, let's get to work. The first thing to do is tear down the engine to inspect, because the majority of KA blocks have seen high mileage. Since the majority of machine shops hae trouble line-honing main journals, you should take the time to measure them for wear and out of roundness. It's better to make sure you have a good block than to spend the money to get a cylinder hone only to find out you need a line hone. With blocks like the KA, it's better to scrap the engine and try another block than risk having a machinist improperly line hone the main journals.

Naoto performs the procedure by first reapplying the proper torque to the main girdle, then checking each journal one by one with a bore gauge. Make sure you work in the correct degree of measurement.

The difference in bearing sizes is in the thousandths of a millimeter. (0.001mm is equal to 0.000039 of an inch) This means that if your machinist only works in thousandths on an inch, he will never be able to get the exact clearance you want; every step he takes he's moving is too large of an increment. Remember, you're paying them to do work for you. Do not accept anything less than what youasked for.

To get a good sample, Naoto takes a measurement at three different axis points: X, Y and Z. He then goes back and measures the crank. With both measurements in hand, he looks up the factory clearance and finds out if there is a suitable bearing that will fit. If you can't find a bearing that will fit what you have, then you can always take that chance and gamble at the machine shop or roll the dice at the junkyard with another block.

After determining that your block is good, you need to get an accurate measurement of your piston. One important tip that Naoto offers is to never leave the measurement responsibility up to the machinist. He takes accurate measurements of the pistons so that he can tell them what bore and finish he needs. We look up the piston clearance and add that into the size of the piston. Again, stress to your machinist that you want it to be accurate to the hundred thousandths of an inch or thousandths of a millimeter. Do not accept anything less.

NPD also machined an aluminum torque plate made for the KA24. The torque plate simulates the stress of the cylinder head keeping the block assembly nice and tight while it is being machined. Without it, the center cylinders tend to come out more out of round thanthe outers.

Now that we know we have a good block and the exact bore size we need, we can send the block out to the machine shop. With the block, we sent the head studs as the block needs to be resized to run an 11mm stud, a headgasket and the torque plate for machining. We'll also be sending out many of the parts to WPC while the block is at the machine shop.

Stay tuned. In part two, we'll discuss the valvetrain and porting of the cylinder head.

ARC International of Japan built their reputation within the automotive community as one of the top manufactures of high-performance products in motorsports competition, such as Formula Nippon, Super Taikyu and Super GT. Best known for their patented intercooler cores that allow for the most efficient temperature drop without loss of pressure, ARC recently shocked the motorsports world when they released arguably one of the most innovative yet controversial products to the market, the ARC Cool Fin. Designed by ARC engineers with a special high-thermal conductivity aluminum fin design, the Cool Fin can be affixed using the special 3M pad on temperature-sensitive areas like the oil pan, intercooler piping, differential and transmission (areas that are prone to excess heat and have no cooling system).

Before you come to the conclusion that ARC uses some typical run-of-the-mill foam padding that adheres to the Cool Fins, we did some investigative research on the 3M Web site and found some interesting information. The 3M pads provided by ARC are, in fact, a special thermal conductive interface pad made specifically to transfer heat. Used to dissipate heat, the silicone-elastomer sheet filled with thermally conductive ceramic particles offers flexibility and strength to hold products in place. In this case, the 1mm 3M thermal pads are supplied to securely attach the aluminum Cool Fins in place.

ARC representatives claim the technology and patent-pending design, which was recently debuted to consumers, was derived through race technology. While the theories of heat transfer taken from Rohsenow &Hartnett's Handbook of Heat Transfer states thermal conductivity of the aluminum is orders of magnitude greater than that of air. This means that heat transfer is going to depend entirely on the rate of airflow over your package surface and on its surface area. In essence, this theory backs up the claims of using the Cool Fin on areas like the oil pan, intercooler pipes, transfer case and rear differential that can subject that area and the fins to large amounts of airflow when driving at high-rated speeds as well as aid in thermal dissipation.

Equipped with a few sets of ARC Cool Fins, we took to the track in hopes of performing some before and after tests with the unit but experienced an unexpected sheering of the Evo's accessory belt, which sent us home packing in disappointment without any true numbers. Independent testing performed by various Japanese publications has shown the Cool Fins to work when installed on the vehicle. One test showed a drop in temp from 117 degrees C to 112 degrees when using the Cool Fin on their track-prepped DC2. While browsing the ARC Web site we found an independent test conducted using two heat detection monitors placed directly on a portable gas burner, one of which was encased with the Cool Fin while the other wasn't. After 14 minutes and 19 seconds, the non Cool Fin unit measured 155 degrees C on the pyrometer while the Cool Fin-encased unit was shown at an amazing 130 degrees C-a 25 degree difference in temp while exposed to direct heat. Look for a follow-up to this story as we take the Evo back on the track and test the Cool Fin to see if the hype is worth the wait!

S2000 Final Drive
Shhh...interested in a dirty little secret the industry doesn't want you to know? There's a growing trend among aftermarket retailers unnervingly price gouging consumers while laughing themselves senseless all the way to the bank. Smart businessmen you ask? Perhaps, but little did we know that these wolves in sheep's clothing made a fortune off unknowing chumps (individuals) like you and I by selling factory-manufactured parts and re-badging them. From a business perspective, we understand that it's a dog-eat-dog world with plenty of money to be made and spent, but knowing that some of the more well-known shops have sold and continue to sell the exact ring and pinion set we recently bought for $267.93 shipped from a dealership parts' distributor for over $1,000-well, we were just sick to our stomachs.

The terms "big" on style, comfort and best value, is just a few of the catchphrases that highlight the new Kia Sportage. While the selling points of the Sportage obviously cater to your average suburban housewife, don't be surprised if you find some teen in a pair of baggy jeans roaming the showroom floors perusing through Kia catalogs. Soccer moms carting their kids around in their Kia Sportage beware; Honda S2K owners are lusting over your car.

It's no surprise that competing manufacturers rely on one another to engineer various components. It's been long rumored that Mazda has lent a helping hand to a number of big-name companies, including Honda and Kia. While these rumors have yet to be established and continue to be highly debated among automotive enthusiasts and Internet forums, we stumbled across an interesting find that would tie all three of these big automotive manufacturers together, namely their ring and pinion setups.

The biggest surprise of them all was finding out that Honda sourced the Mazda 7-inch rear for the Honda S2000. This doesn't necessarily mean you can simply bolt a Mazda rear end on your S2K and call it a day because of the difference in rear housing and axel designs. It seems Mazda has been sourcing out its gears to Honda S2Ks and '94-'02 Kia Sportages 4x4. The front axle of the Sportage has a Mazda 4.778 ring and pinion (part number MM05727110), which high-performance retailers have been secretly selling as an aftermarket gear for over $1,000. The only difference between the $1,000 unit and the $267.93 gear set we bought is, of course, the price gouging and the possibility of a few retailers who add cryogenic treatment to the units as a bonus. The same 4.77 final gear set found in the Kia is interchangeable to fit on the S2K as a direct bolt on, as well as the Mazda final drive off a stock RX-8 with a 4.44 ratio. Upon further research, we found numerous final drive setups that were all interchangeable between the S2K and Mazda, including a n/a powered S2K's dream come true 4.625 ratio, which is available on the New Zealand Kia Sportage. When comparing the S2K factory 4.1-ratio final drive to the 4.77 final installed in our factory pumpkin, we found numerous pros and cons attributed with this setup.

The first and most obvious would be losing top end speed but, on a positive note, improving acceleration off the line. The 4.77-ratio setup offers improved acceleration only when you're in the same gear as someone with higher gears. A prime example would be someone who drove in Fifth gear before would likely now be in Sixth gear now because of the 4.77 final drive. Off the line in First gear, the 4.77s will be quicker but as speed increases, the torque advantage decreases since you find yourself revving up in a higher gear. For n/a powered S2K owners planning on tracking their cars, the 4.77 ratio offers more torque, thus creating less of an issue at a lower rpm, especially on a technical course with more turns-like the Streets of Willow raceway in Rosamond, Calif. On courses that have longer straights, such as Big Willow, the 4.77-ratio setup is known to top out at 140 to 145 mph. For the novice driver, reaching those speeds would be a rarity but for the more advanced level, the limiting speeds might hamper your times going through the long sweeper through turn 8. One good advantage to owning a S2K geared on a set of 4.77s is being able to use Sixth gear as you shift through the turns-making your shift points and entry/exit speeds coming out of the turns more usable in terms of power.

As with any final drive modification, swapping out your final drive will send an incorrect signal to your speedometer. To remedy this problem, aftermarket speedometer recalibrators, such as the Yellow Jacket, can be used to recalibrate for the new final drive setup in your S2K. Units such as these are purchased over the Internet for $50 complete with instructions and wire harness. Other alternative systems include a slick unit known as the Yellow Box, which uses a series of dipswitches to recalibrate your vehicle and also has the added ability to convert from kph to mph.

So what's the most ideal gear ratio for your vehicle? Determining your final drive ratio will depend on whether you're running on forced induction or naturally aspirated. We've come across a number of supercharged S2K owners swapping out their factory differentials for a more favorable 4.44 final drive while the more hardcore road race individuals opt out for the 4.65 to 4.77 final drive setup. Whichever route you decide on following, always consult a Honda Specialist or certified tech before attempting to tackle this job on your own because honestly, driving at 9,000 rpm in Sixth gear doing 50 mph isn't exactly much of a thrill ride.

Be sure to replace the oil filler and drain plugs with new sets of washers before reinstalling the pumpkin back onto your S2K. Honda recommends using Hypoid gear oil GL5 or GL6 (viscosity No. 90). With your new ring and pinion setup, pay special attention during the break-in procedure and refrain from performing any hard launches or spirited runs for at least 500 miles at which time the old fluid should be replaced.

Vehicle Year/Model	Final Drive
'94-'02 Kia Sportage 4x4 (front axle)	4.778:1
'99+ NZ market Kia Sportage 4x4 (front axle)	4.625:1
'94-'97 Miata	4.10
'99+ Miata five-speed (4.10:1 on automatic starting in 2000)	4.30
'87-'88 Mazda 4x4 truck (front axle) and Kia NZ Sportage optional	4.44
Mazda RX-8	4.44
'79-'85 12a RX-7 and ('99+ six-speed Miata)	3.909
'79-'82 RWD 626 five-speed ('01+ Australian six-speed)	3.636:1
Kia Sportage aftermarket gears are available	4.875:1, 5.125:1, 5.38:1

The NSX was Honda's first attempt at building a supercar and was dubbed by many, the Japanese Ferrari. Based on its design, the automobile was considered exotic by many. With a mid-engine layout and superior handling capabilities, the NSX was engineered with the prowess of showcasing Honda's superior race technology. Powered by a 3.0L, DOHC, 24-valve, V-6 engine mated to a five-speed, the Honda NSX was regarded as the most exotic vehicle to ever be produced in Japan. With superior attention to craftsmanship, each NSX was hand-assembled by a special team of technicians at a dedicated factory in Tochigi. With the Tochigi plant producing 25 vehicles per day at a cost of $65,000 to build, the NSX was labeled as the most expensive Japanese car in history at the time.

With all the hype and attention that the NSX offered to the general public, the 270hp VTEC machine enjoyed a limited run in the U.S. from 1991 to its abrupt end in 2005. As a testament to the NSX's engineering and technological advancements, the vehicle has remained unchanged with only minor revisions during its production cycle from 1991 to 2001. From 2002-2005, the NSX received aero enhancements in the way of a redesigned front bumper, headlight revision, lower stance side skirts with door caps, lower rear bumper and small trunk lip spoiler. Even with these various minor changes to the exterior, none were as noticeable or as impacting as the aerodynamic modifications on the '02 NSX Type-R.

Various under panels and aerodynamic modifications were added to the second-generation NSX Type-R to create more downforce, minimizing parasitic drag and improving overall high-speed stability. Independent track testing has shown the Type-R's aggressive rear spoiler, hood vents and rear diffuser have improved its handling capabilities over previous NSX models and higher-powered vehicles on the track without horsepower improvements. The only setback found in the Type-R is the very limited production of NSX-R's produced in Japan; these parts were never available in the U.S. To say that getting their parts is difficult is definitely an understatement.

Downforce, located in Orange, Calif., was our answer to improving our '98 Acura NSX's aerodynamic dilemma. Downforce has a reputation in the Acura community as specialists in carbon-fiber fabrication and manufacturing for the NSX. Downforce offers a full under tray package consisting of a front bumper under tray, aluminum battery tray, fuel tank cover and rear diffuser. The idea of having a better flow on the bottom of the car is to create two separate pressure zones. Ideally, if you want to have more downforce without raising the coefficient of drag you can design the car to work like an upside-down airfoil (airplane wing). When air hits the top of the car, it flows slower over the top compared to the bottom. Naturally, the air from the top wants to equalize the bottom (lower or negative pressure) so it squeezes the car down into the ground. This doesn't increase the drag; therefore, this is the most efficient way to create downforce without losing top speed power. Spoilers are becoming more dated because they aren't efficient and do more for fashion rather than performance. While spoilers can offer tremendous downforce, they also produce a lot of drag that will affect your fuel consumption, top speed, acceleration, etc. "Many people think that leaving the tailgate down on a pickup truck will reduce drag and improve fuel efficiency," says Peter Chou, owner of Downforce. "This is the exact opposite. By lowering the tailgate it will allow the high- and low-pressure air to create an excess amount of turbulence and this is parasitic drag."

Driving ImpressionsAfter installing the under panel aero from Downforce, we tested the new products and spread the NSX's wings with some spirited driving. While taking the car on a testdrive, the NSX was more stable at high speeds and also surprisingly quieter from road noise. This was possibly due to the fact that the air was basically gliding underneath the panels and didn't stumble into any open patches under the car. Some promising test results came when we encountered a sweeping 45-degree freeway interchange. We hit triple-digit speeds before we realized how fast we were going, but then had to slow down due to slower moving traffic. The NSX didn't flinch one bit and remained stable through the turn. We still haven't taken the car to the track to see how it performs, but we have good expectations for the aero mods.

PRICING
Battery tray	$350
FRP front bumper under tray	$350
Carbon-fiber front bumper under tray	$500
Carbon-fiber fuel tank cover	$435
Carbon-fiber NSX-R OEM small diffuser	$450
Fiberglass DF-R diffuser	$675
Carbon-fiber DF-R diffuser	$825
NSX-R hood exact replica FRP (MSRP $9,800)	$1,750
Carbon-fiber hood duct exact NSX-R replica	$450
Carbon-fiber hood duct exact NSX-R replica DF-R version	$650
Carbon-fiber rear wing exact NSX-R replica (MSRP $6,800)	$1,390

Turbosmart Ultra-Gate 38 External Wastegate
Turbosmart, based out of Croydon, Australia, debuts its newest 38mm external wastegatel. The Ultra-Gate 38 offers optimal flow path and handles extreme temperature tolerances under the most severe race and drag conditions. The Ultra-Gate 38 features an investment cast stainless steel body, anodized actuator, one-piece stainless steel billet valve and silicone Nomex diaphragm. Each kit is supplied with a 7psi spring, two gaskets and NPT fittings. The Ultra-Gate 38 is compatible with all Turbosmart Boost Controllers.
Turbosmart / www.turbosmartusa.com

Titan Motorsports Carbon-Fiber Spark Plug Cover
Titan Motorsports carbon-fiber spark plug cover is a perfect fit to the 2JZGTE motor and complements any underhood color scheme. The Titan cover was designed to shield half of the cam gears, leaving the bottoms exposed to show off the gears. Crafted from the highest quality of carbon fiber, every Titan carbon-fiber cover is handlaid to ensure top quality and precise fitment.
Titan Motorsports / www.titanmotorsports.com

Garrett Turbocharger Speed Sensor
The Garrett turbocharger speed sensor kit includes all necessary wiring for easy installation and simple data allowing the user to monitor compressor wheel speeds accurately and consistently to ensure maximum efficiency and long turbo life. Turbocharger speed sensors are essential in providing overspeed protection.
Garrett / www.turbobygarrett.com

Endless SS-H Brake Pad
Endless USA's new SS-H brake pad compound is designed specifically for vehicles factory equipped with Brembo calipers. Although, those who own Evos can agree that the factory pads aren't exactly up to par when it comes to braking performance. The SS-H pads were designed as a high-performance street pad that exhibits no noise. Currently a popular compound in Europe among Ferrari club racers, the new SS-H brake pad offers the best of both worlds: high performance and complete silence.
Endless USA / www.endlessusa.com

Mishimoto Carbon-Fiber Intake System
Mishimoto claims its new line of intake systems will revolutionize airflow to your engine. Handlaid and highly durable carbon fiber provides cooler temperaturesto incoming air through a four-layer cotton and aluminum mesh high-flow air filter. Lightweight and easy to install, these OEM fit intakes have flared edges that enable the filter to breathe more air than a traditional intake system. All Mishimoto intakes come with a limited lifetime warranty.
Mishimoto / www.mishimoto.com

Toyota Xact Prolite Flywheel
Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT) has a new lightweight, forged, certified SFI Spec. 1.1, XACT ProLite flywheel for '90-'95 Toyota MR2 turbos and '87-'93 Toyota Celica All Tracs. ACT ProLite CNC-machined flywheels are made from high-quality forged chrome moly and feature an induction-hardened integral ring gear for increased durability. All ACT flywheels are heat-treated for strength and precision balanced for smooth operation. Each flywheel is tested and certified to meet SFI Spec 1.1 standards, which means that all XACT StreetLite and ProLite flywheels are legal for competition when SFI Spec. 1.1 is required or recommended. XACT flywheels come complete with an official SFI sticker and a serial number, which is required for certification. The new XACT ProLite flywheels for '90-'95 Toyota MR2 turbos and '87-'93 Toyota Celica All Tracs offer significant weight savings from the factory part. The weight of this new flywheel is 10.5 pounds and offers significantly improved engine response.
Advanced Clutch Technology / www.advancedclutch.com

Tomei Powered Ej25 Poncam
TOMEI Japan's newest drop in camshafts for the Subaru EJ25 claims to offer maximum results in power for those Subie owners who still use their factory cylinder heads. The PONCAM was designed with IN/EX 252 with a 10.4-degree lift. Data gathered from R&D on the EJ25 factory camshafts revealed that at 6,000 rpm and higher the stock cams showed severe intake air restrictions. The PONCAM was designed as a simple drop-in cam that eliminates the need of modifying the factory valvetrain. It's a scenario often associated with larger lift and duration camshafts, which cause piston valve clearance issues and interference with the camshaft caps.
Tomei Powered / www.tomeiusa.com

Recaros Child Safety Seat
Legendary motorsport seat manufacturer Recaro is expanding its line of child safety seats by taking its technology and design out of competitive racing and into your backseat. Recaro has five new child safety seats that have been engineered for safety and comfort.
The newest seats include the Recaro Como and Signo, convertible seats designed for children between 5 to 70 pounds and up to 8 years old. Como and Signo both feature Recaro side impact protection, adjustable headrests, innovative latch bar systems, a racing inspired five-point harness system and a comfortable ergonomic shape that provides an improved upright position for infants or toddlers. Both seats are available in four microfiber cover colors providing parents a choice if they have a boy, girl or both.
The Recaro Vivo lite and Vivo, two new high back booster seats for children between 30 to 100 pounds and up to 12 years old, both feature Recaro side impact protection, reinforced aluminum structure, ventilation system and six adjustable headrest positions. Recaro uses race-proven technology to develop a line of seats that will not only protect children but also provide them with a comfortable ride.
Recaro / www.recaro.com

Odyssey Street Performance Batteries
The Odyssey PC680MJT-A battery provides 680 cranking amps for five seconds and offers 24 reserve minutes. The dry cell batteries use a unique thin plate pure lead (TPPL) technology that allows a single battery configuration to provide two essential performance characteristics-maximum cranking power and true 400 deep cycles-to 80 percent depth of discharge. The Odyssey PC680MJT-A battery weighs 16 pounds yet it's capable of starting a 5.7L V-8 engine.
The Odyssey 34/78-PC1500DT-H battery provides 1,500 cranking amps for five seconds and 135 reserve minutes. Both batteries provide superior deep cycle capabilities and charging ability to provide repeatable power for hydraulics, air compressor airlift suspensions and long service life.
Odyssey / www.odysseybattery.com

Fuel System HarnessIt's no surprise that OE engineers designed fuel systems to match the set parameters and performance of a vehicle as it comes straight from the factory. As we tune our cars and extract the power outside of the stock box, the amount of fuel the engine needs to run safely and efficiently goes up. More often than not, the stock fuel pump has to be replaced to handle the sufficient volume of fuel needed. The misconception here is that you need more fuel pressure when actually it's the volume of fuel that needs to be increased when you bump up the duty cycle on the injector or change to larger-sized injectors.

Fuel pumps are electric motors that are voltage dependant. The more voltage you add, the harder it works (in a safe range of voltage, of course). In the case of newer model vehicles-like the Mitsubishi Evolution-the pump runs on a staged voltage, increasing as more throttle and load is added. On that premise, ensure that the pump is running the maximum amount of voltage under wide-open throttle.

Unfortunately for Evos and other vehicles using the staged voltage setup, the pump doesn't always get the maximum amount of voltage. The fluctuation in pump capacity is due to the voltage having to travel through several hoops (i.e. the fuse box and ECU, before it finally reaches the main pump). Along the way, there's a drop in the voltage signal-often seen on the dyno when attempting to tune at a higher rpm. To remedy this problem, we found a simple yet effective solution that can be done in the comforts of your own backyard by using a over-the-counter relay harness to safely divert battery voltage from the battery straight to the pump.

Here are some solutions for a relay harness on two cars that are common candidates for fuel pump upgrades. For the first vehicle, an Evo VIII CT9A, we went with an Auto Produce Boss LAP pump relay harness, which is a popular upgrade among Evo owners overseas. The AP Boss harness is premade with factory-type Molex connectors and high-grade wire shielding. The harness is a plug-and-play unit that will work on the Evo 7, 8 and 9, including the MR. We also opted to swap the fuel pump with an AP Boss 240lph LAP fuel pump, as the owner had plans to increase horsepower in the near future. The second vehicle we put under the knife was a '91 240SX S13. The 240SX with aftermarket turbocharged SR20DET swaps in the states demands more fuel for obvious reasons. To remedy the issue of pump voltage here's a step-by-step process on how to build your own harness from scratch.

Tools and supplies you'll need: 1/4-inch ratchet, 10mm shallow socket, 10mm deep socket, 8mm socket, 3/8-inch ratchet, 14mm deep socket, 10mm open-end wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, panel popper, needle-nose pliers, dikes, pick set, crimpers, soldering iron, razor blade, cable ties and rags. Note: Make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area with access to a fire extinguisher.

Step 1
Remove the negative terminal from the battery. Make sure you have the radio code or you'll have to go to the dealer. Loosen the fuel cap to relieve fuel pressure.

Step 2
Locate the tab under the rear seat. Pull the tab while pulling up on the rear seat to remove it. To give access to the carpet, remove the step covers by the door. Remove the two clips on the far side of the carpet and pull back to expose the fuel system harness. On the passenger side, locate the pin eight connector D-12 and pin one connector D-30. To provide easier access to the connectors, remove the two screws holding the harness down.

Step 3
Connect the relay harness inline and find a suitable place for the relay that's not in the way of passengers' feet.

Step 4
Run the harness along the side of the carpet up to the firewall. Remove the main harness grommet. Make a slit in the grommet and run the harness through the grommet. We made a slit in a cross to give enough clearance for the positive side connector to make it through without leaving a hole. Don't damage the harness in any way! Note: You might need to remove the clip behind the 10mm nut inside the vehicle to gain access. You may also want to remove the strut tower bar to get better access underhood.

Step 5
Run the harness to the battery. Make sure the harness can be secured out of the way from anything that could damage it. Attach the positive side to the battery. Wait until the pump installation is finished to attach the negative terminal.

Step 6
Back inside the car, remove the fuel pump assembly access cover (driver-side cover) Underneath, you will find one connector, two fuel couplers and one hose.

Step 7
Remove the 8mm nuts that hold down the pump assembly. The top ring will come free from the assembly. You'll have to finesse the ring, twisting it to free it. Don't force it; it will come out in the right position. Remove the pump assembly and be cautious of any fuel that might drip.

Step 8
Remove the bottom cover of the fuel assembly. With a twisting motion, remove the pump from the assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector from the pump. The AP Boss fuel pump uses a different style connector so we have to cut off the stock connector and crimp the new pins and insert them into the new connector. Note: Do this one at a time so that you don't mix up which wire goes into which side. Add a bit of solder to the connector before you re-install to ensure that the wire doesn't come loose from the terminal. Remove the plastic o-ring from the stock pump and install it on the new pump. Install the assembly in this order: harness, pump, rubber grommet, aluminum spacer and bottom cover.

Step 9
Re-install the pump, making sure to not over-tighten the cover. Attach all of the connections. Before you put everything together, attach the battery to ensure there are no problems. Prime the pump by turning the key on and off a couple of times. Once the car starts, put everything back together and you're done!

Nissan S13 Custom Fuel Pump Relay Harness Install:
Tools and supplies you'll need: 10mm deep socket, 10mm combination wrench, wire strippers, crimpers, soldering iron, voltmeter, screwdriver set, coat hanger, Bosch relay, premade relay bottom, 12-gauge wire (enough to run to the battery), 12-gauge female terminal, 12-gauge ring terminal, 16-gauge ring terminal, inline fuseholder, 15-amp fuse and shrink-wrap.

Step 1
Locate the fuel pump harness. For the S13, it sits right by the cap to the pump assembly in the trunk and to the right of the spare tire. Remove the cover to reveal the harness. With your multimeter, locate the trigger wire for the fuel pump and the ground. The wire should momentarily show voltage when the key is turned to the "on" position. The 12V should be blue with a red wire; the ground is white with a purple wire. Note: This vehicle is already outfitted with an aftermarket pump, so we're just adding in the relay harness and upgrading the wiring harness.

Step 2
Turn the key to the "off" position and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Examine the schematic on the relay itself; it should have a bunch of numbers and a bunch of symbols. To understand this, you have to understand how a relay works. A relay is like a door to two entrances. One entrance is always open, while one is always closed. A magnet inside the relay opens the second door when the circuit is complete and closes the previous one. On a Bosch relay, the numbers should correspond as follows: 30 is the feed; 87a is normally open; 87 is normally closed; 86 is trigger ground and 85 is the 12V trigger. If you bought a premade relay bottom it should be color-coded. Since we're only working with voltage going in one direction, 87a will not be used. You can de-pin this if you're using a premade connector. We also opted to de-pin the feed (30) since we're using a 12-gauge wire as our feed.

Step 3
Cut the 12V wire (blue with red) and wire it (side closer to the harness) to the 12V trigger on your relay (85). Do the same with the ground wire (white with purple) to the GND trigger on your relay (86). For the wire from your harness that goes to the fuel pump, wire the normally closed on the relay (87) to the other side of your 12V wire (blue with red). For the remaining ground wire (white with purple), crimp a ring terminal and attach it to an appropriate ground location. We used the continuity function on the voltmeter to find out that the fuel pump cover was a ground. Crimp a female terminal to your feed wire and attach it to your relay.

Step 4
Run the feed wire to the front of the car. Solder your feed wire to your inline fuse holder. Make sure to properly shield your connection with shrink-wrap or electrical tape. Crimp a ring terminal on the opposite side of the inline fuse holder and attach it to the positive terminal on the battery. Secure your wiring so that it is out of the way of damage. Make sure to insert a new 15-amp fuse into your fuse holder.

Step 5
Check all of your connections, since a short in your wiring can cause an electrical fire. Attach the negative terminal to the battery. Turn the key to "on" to check if the fuel pump is working. It should momentarily turn on as it normally does if you wired it right. Start the car to check if everything is working properly. Mount the relay in a location that it cannot get damaged. Put everything back together and you're done.

The EVO is a known commodity in the tuning world. It seems that wherever you look you see them; it also seems that spotting a stock EVO anymore is about as likely as spotting a flock of Ferrari Enzos. The EVO IX was the final evolutionary development of the superb, destined to become classic CT9A chassis, which also includes the IX's predecessors-the VII and VIII. The IX's defined by the changes its legendary 4G63 engine's undergone, bettering it year by year.

The 4G63 is known more for its rock solid strength than it is its technological superiority. Its stout iron block and DOHC valvetrain have become somewhat dated as this engine traces its ancestral roots back to the mid-1980s. But in its last year of production, Mitsubishi face-lifted the 4G63 with a bit of modern technology. The biggest difference in the IX's engine is MIVEC, Mitsubishi's variable cam timing system. MIVEC allows for 27 degrees of intake camshaft adjustment, which ultimately helps improve the 4G63's powerband. Intake camshaft timing is kept retarded at lower engine speeds, which results in reduced overlap, making for a smoother idle and improved emissions. Camshaft timing then increases alongside engine speed, making for improved torque and quicker turbo spool-up in the midrange. But at high-engine speeds timing is once again retarded in order to reduce backpressure-driven reversion to promote better breathing.

The new cylinder head features enlarged water jackets surrounding the combustion chambers making extended thread spark plugs mandatory. This improves combustion chamber cooling and reduces the chances of detonation. This makes for more aggressive tuning with our poor quality pump gas and means power output remains more consistent, an issue that plagued the EVO VIII. These changes help make the IX more responsive to tuning when compared to the older VIII resulting in fewer compromises throughout the powerband.

As Project EVO's been making its way toward racking up its first 1,000 miles, we've been itching to get into its engine. Before our initial dyno tests, we changed all of our fluids to Motul synthetics to help protect our investment. Engine oil consists of Motul's 300V 15W50 and the gear oil 300V 90W140. Motul's synthetics are race-bred, used by top race teams like Nismo's JGTC effort and Subaru's WRC rally team, so we're pretty sure they're good enough for us. Synthetics work better during high-heat applications and are less likely to choke, just what's needed for hot-running turbo engines. On a side note, we also replaced Mitsubishi's fish oil brake fluid with Motul RBF 600. The RBF formula is of the best around, performing nearly as well as or better than many ber-expensive exotics like the legendary F1 standards: Castrol SRF and AP550. Motul's dry boiling point is an astounding 600 degrees F-amazing. Motul also resists absorbing moisture from the atmosphere better than most brake fluids do, resulting in a higher boiling point than many of its competitors.

Even in stock trim, the differences between the VIII and IX are readily apparent. Turbo lag is less of a problem with the IX, while low-end torque is more readily available and power doesn't taper off as quickly as the VIII at higher engine speeds. Project EVO's baseline dyno results at XS Engineering revealed consistency run after run, quite the contrast from our rather erratic EVO VIII project from a few years back. In stock form, Project EVO IX surprised us with a healthy 265 whp at 6,500 rpm and 239 lb-ft of torque at 4,250 rpm; a whopping 38whp gain from the old EVO VIII project.

Our first mod is one of the biggest bangs for the buck we've witnessed. We simply flipped our stock airbox lid and dropped in a K&N replacement air filter element. The K&N uses a washable and reusable cotton gauze element that flows much better than the OEM oiled paper part ever could. K&N assured us our replacement filter was going to surprise us but we remained skeptical. We were amazed to pick up 4 whp at the peak, resulting in 269 whp at 6,740 rpm. The filter also allowed for increased power throughout the powerband, as much as 8 whp in certain spots.

Next up is our cat-back exhaust. Now just about every EVO in these parts sports some sort of cat-back exhaust, in fact we can't remember the last time we've seen an EVO without one. Since Project EVO's modifications will inevitably get rather extensive, a large diameter exhaust was chosen. And since we also plan on tracking our all-go no-show EVO, weight became a consideration; after all, the EVO is somewhat porky to begin with, with an exhaust that isn't exactly light. Enter GReddy's TiC system.

The TiC features big 80mm tubing, one of the only non-special order exhausts available in the U.S. to offer such sizing. The EVO TiC is designed with minimal bends for less backpressure and better exhaust velocity. It's also light, featuring thin-wall stainless steel construction, hollow stainless hangers, thin but strong stainless flanges and a titanium tip. The TiC exhibits extremely low backpressure with its straight-through perforated core mufflers filled with GReddy's unique composite cube packing. The TiC is more than 20 pounds lighter than the stock exhaust. What we found amazing was that despite the system's race-inspired, straight-through construction and baffle-free mufflers, it was nearly as quiet as the stock muffler-that's with the optional silencer removed. On the dyno we found that the TiC gave us 8 hp on the top end boosting our output to 276 whp at 7,050 rpm. The exhaust was limited to power increases up top, which leads us to believe that major restrictions lie forward of the cat.

Next up is XS Engineering's intercooler hard pipe kit. The kit replaces the restrictive stock piping with smooth, mandrel-bent polished aluminum tubing. It works with both the stock and XS' upgraded front-mount intercooler. A smaller battery, however, is required when using the XS kit-or you can do what we did and relocate the battery to the trunk. A smaller or relocated battery allows XS' hard pipe kit to take advantage of smoother bends for less turbulence inside. It's apparent XS took their time here, carefully shaping and routing pipes to keep bends at a minimum and airflow high without simply resorting to larger tubing, which often leads to poor throttle response and increased turbo lag.

The hard pipe installs relatively easily but we did have to remove Project EVO's front fascia-also an easy job. It's almost as if the EVO was designed to have its bumper easily removed. XS assured us that the power gains would please us but, again, we were skeptical. We just didn't think the stock intercooler plumbing was all that restrictive looking. A trip to the dyno yielded surprising results. The XS piping resulted in a 7whp gain for a new high of 284 whp at 6,800 rpm. Power gains were generally across the board with improved low-end response. Peak gains of more than 12 whp were realized past peak power. What a pleasant surprise this was.

It's a well-known fact that the Karman mass airflow meter-equipped EVO is sensitive to change. Even simple modifications can play havoc with air/fuel ratios as the MAF can easily be thrown out of whack. Usually, ECU tuning is required to get the most out of any modification, especially when dealing with modifications positioned pre-turbocharger. Another issue: factory timing maps are optimized for 93-octane gas and are just too aggressive for our crappy California 91-octane pee water. The EVO ECU monitors knock; as knock counts rise, the ECU pulls timing. And if they get too high, the ECU switches to less aggressive high-octane and even several different low-octane maps to better protect the engine. This makes for inconsistent operation.

Mitsubishi's ECU tune fails to take advantage of all MIVEC has to offer. With a full 27 degrees of intake camshaft adjustment possible, the stock system only makes use of roughly half that. Large low and midrange power gains can be had through MIVEC tuning. All is likely this way for emissions reasons.

XS Engineering's Koji Arai fired up his laptop for a quick ECU reflash using their stock vehicle/cat-back exhaust program. The XS flash tweaks fuel, ignition, MIVEC maps, boost control tables and raises the rev limit to 7,800 rpm. One advantage with ECU reflashing versus piggyback systems is that the former does what it does in the same way the factory gets things done. With piggyback devices, Mitsubishi's ECU is forced into a figurative tuning fight with the piggyback ECU, automatically adjusting fuel and spark trims that are constantly trying to return to normal parameters. Because of this, inferior piggybacks can often run well at first and then begin to conflict with the ECU resulting in poor operation. On an aggressively tuned setup this isn't just annoying, it can also be potentially dangerous for the engine's health. Another advantage to reflashing the stock ECU is that all of the factory's electronic safeguards for overboost, knock detection and overheating remain intact.

Back at the dyno, XS' reflash results were amazing. We gained 5-peak hp, which means Project EVO's pumping out a good 289 whp at 7,100 rpm. This only tells a fraction of the story, though. Power gains are huge across the board, as much as 18 whp in certain spots. We picked up power from idle all the way to fuel cut. Each power curve dip and squiggle was filled in nicely with hardly any drop at all as we approached fuel cut. The results are a solid wall of power from 3,000 rpm all the way to 7,800 rpm-a whopping 4,800rpm powerband. On the road, the car feels like a different animal with the turbo spooling much faster and always wanting boost. The seat of the pants feel is even greater than dyno charts would suggest. On a side note, we believe XS' reflash to be extremely safe, perhaps even safer than the stock program as knock counts are fewer and dyno pulls are far more consistent. Had we known about all of these positive benefits, we would have probably flashed the ECU as a first step. The XS reflash was, by far, the best thing we have done to date.

Overall, Project EVO pleases us. With a few simple bolt-ons and our ECU reflashed, we picked up nearly 30 whp across the board from idle to fuel cut. Project EVO currently feels exactly how we believe it should feel straight from the factory. Stay tuned; we'll be working on our IX in an effort to find out how far we can push it with its stock turbo and even more simple bolt-ons.

The friction-fighting properties of synthetic lubricants have been well established by now. Second only to making sure you change your oil at regular intervals is the need for a high-quality synthetic oil. Even if we disregard the performance benefits offered by the reduced friction, the improved lubrication and protection from thermal breakdown are reason enough to step up to the cost of synthetic lubricants. Not filling the crankcase with synthetics can be likened to running your turbo engine on low-octane fuel. Under most conditions, your boosted engine will tolerate the cheap stuff, but when you really need it most, the lesser octane can subject your turbo engine to deadly detonation. While the oiling situation likely won't be as dramatic, it is possible to spin a bearing or two under the heat of battle using conventional oil. Sure, synthetic oil is slightly more expensive, but a portion of the added cost can be recouped by lengthening oil change intervals since synthetics are less susceptible to contamination. But even if you do choose to schedule your changes every 3,000 miles, doesn't your performance engine deserve the good stuff?

The Rundown
While their increased longevity and heat-resistant properties make synthetic oils desirable, the additional power realized through reduced internal friction can be considered the icing on the cake. To illustrate the potential power gains offered we compared synthetic oil against conventional (non-synthetic) oil in three different back-to-back tests. Part one looks at both a normally aspirated and a turbocharged B18C VTEC combination. We follow this up by testing super lightweight racing oil on a 4AGE Toyota. The naturally aspirated/turbo test was made possible since we were breaking in a new turbo engine and were afforded the opportunity to run it normally aspirated before subjecting it to boost. Running the engine in both normally aspirated and turbocharged states allows us to test the various oils' effects on both combinations. Would the added strain of the higher power output turbo engine yield different results or would the power gains offered by the reduced friction remain the same with both combinations? Questions like these are why we go to such trouble in the first place.

The Naturally Aspirated Setup
The turbocharged test engine began life as any other B18C block, but was quickly augmented with a set of sleeves to allow for an increase in bore size from 81mm to 84mm. The increased bore is matched with an 87.2mm crank, a set of Probe Racing forged connecting rods and forged aluminum pistons. The shortblock is topped off with a CNC-ported Dart head, a set of Skunk2 Stage 2 camshafts and a matching Skunk2 intake manifold. Additional features include a complete Cometic headgasket set, ARP head studs and Skunk2 timing gears. The engine is also equipped with a modified AEM fuel rail designed to let us use the larger Bosch-type injectors. The naturally aspirated engine uses 36 lb/hr injectors, while the turbo is fitted with 72 lb/hr ones. Both cam timing and ignition timing are dialed in as is the air/fuel ratio using the Fast XFI engine management system. The Fast system is what allows us to produce such repeatable power curves (within 1 hp). The naturally aspirated engine is also equipped with an A'PEXi header feeding a 3-inch open exhaust.

The Naturally Aspirated Test
The first order of business was to get the new engine up and running and subjected to its break-in procedure. Our computerized break-in procedure varies applied loads and engine speeds for 30-minute sessions. Once completed, we can dial in timing and air/fuel ratios for full-throttle conditions and then swap the oil and filter. We filled the Honda crankcase with Lucas 20W-50 conventional oil for our first phase of testing. The oil was brought up to temperature (190 degrees), while air and coolant temperatures were kept constant. With the conventional oil, the normally aspirated B-series engine produced 203 hp and 150 lb-ft of torque. Though we hoped for a bit more, we can't forget the fact that this low-compression engine was really built for one thing-boost. Subsequent runs resulted in repeated power figures. Following our first stage of tests, we drained the oil and swapped out the filter. After filling the crankcase with an equal amount of 5W-20 Lucas synthetic, we were rewarded with an immediate 8hp jump. Naturally, the synthetic oil was run at the same temperature as the conventional oil. The combination of the viscosity change and synthetic makeup improved power output to a total of 211 hp. As expected, the power gains increased with engine speed-most notable of which was near redline.

The Turbo Setup
Following the proper break-in procedure and the normally aspirated test, we fitted the turbo system to our B-series. The turbo configuration consists of a custom turbo manifold from HP Performance feeding a T72 Turbonetics turbo. Since this particular engine is destined for a record-breaking land speed car, the turbo was sized to produce optimum power near peak engine speeds. For street applications, this turbo is just too large, but since we only care about maximum power from roughly 7,500 rpm to 8,500 rpm, the combination produces boost numbers that actually exceed backpressure numbers-needless to say, this is difficult to achieve. The T72 feeds a single-core, air-to-water intercooler, though in the car we rely on a more efficient dual-core system. The injectors were swapped for the larger set and a TiAL wastegate was put in charge for boost control. For this test, we ran city water, not the generally hotter dyno water, through the core since we were running our oil test at a reduced boost level of only 16 psi. The key to successful testing is repeatability. Turbo engines, especially high-horsepower versions, can be temperamental and as such, call for a regimented procedure and precise tuning to achieve the kind of repeatability we require.

The Turbo Test
After fine-tuning the Fast XFI system with the new injectors and race fuel, the turbo engine showed the kind of repeatability we were looking for. The air/fuel and timing curves were perfect, while our start and test procedure all but ensured the same amount of heat energy and therefore boost pressure supplied by the turbo. The circulation through the air-to-water intercooler remained constant as did the cam timing and intake air temperatures. With each variable accounted for, all we had to do was make a few runs with the conventional oil and then again with the synthetic. Lucas suppled the oil required to get the engine up and running properly and allowed us to run a pair of back-to-back tests. Equipped with the conventional 20W-50 oil (again at 190 degrees), the low-boost turbo engine produced 481 hp at 16 psi. After swapping in the 5W-20 synthetic oil, peak power numbers jumped to 492 hp at an identical boost level-of course, air/fuel ratios and timing remained constant. Once again, the Lucas synthetic oil upped the power output of our turbo test engine by as much as 10-plus hp.

The Other Test
Our final test run on the Dynojet chassis dyno involves a 4AGE Toyota engine. The '89 Toyota Corolla GTS is equipped with a high-mileage 1.6L twin-cam 4AGE. The four-valve engine features a custom air intake and cat-back exhaust, but is otherwise completely stock. The oil change was a move to increase the engine's power output in preparation for the endurance race, the 24 Hours of LeMons. The race pits vehicles against not just one another but against the possibility of even finishing in a car that, by the rules, can be worth no more than $500. Running the synthetic oil was one of our tricks to improve the performance of our low-buck race car. Like our turbo engine tests, the 4AGE was run first with conventional oil, making note of the oil, air and water temperatures as well as the air/fuel ratios and timing values, which we data logged for ensured repeatability. We then replaced the conventional oil with a new blend of ultralight race oil offered by Lucas. The conventional oil was a 10W-40 while the synthetic race oil checked in with a water-like 0W-5 weight. Though we were concerned about the viscosity, the oil pressure gauge indicated plenty of pressure, even with the engine at full operating temperature at idle. Run with the conventional oil (at 190 degrees), the 4AGE produced 108 hp. After switching over to the Lucas synthetic oil, peak power jumped to 114 hp with a gain of over 8 hp past 7,000 rpm. Perhaps it's safe to say that Lucas Oil's friction-fighting formula really does work.

Motegi Racing Sx5 Wheel
Bring back that classic five-spoke look with Motegi Racing's new SX5 wheel. Each of the SX5's five spokes feature ridges built into their backsides; they can't be seen but they allow for that ultra-thin appearance ... wide, but thin. The machined lip also adds a modern touch to this timeless, five-spoke design. This unique design can only be found with Motegi Racing's SX5. The SX5 is a one-piece cast wheel available in silver, glossy black and chrome finishes; it's available in 15-, 16-, 17- and 18-inch sizes, fitting almost any passenger car or small SUV.
Motegi Racing / Www.Motegiracing.Com

Ebc Ultimax Slotted Rotors
EBC Brakes' new super quiet Ultimax slotted rotors improve braking in several ways. Most notably, the slotted pattern expels dirt, dust and gases from the braking surface. Slotted rotors also have the ability to maintain a flat surface despite thousands of miles of use and avoid the typical "record grooves" found when using plain rotors during aggressive driving. The use of sport pads to enhance braking has exposed the problem of record grooving and the new Ultimax slotted rotors solve that problem, maintaining a glass-smooth rotor and pad surface that mate together and form an optimum brake interface. Ultimax rotors are available for many Honda applications from $125 per axle set.
Ebc Brakes / Www.Ebcbrakes.Com

Buschur Racing Driveshaft Loop
Buschur Racing's true bolt-in driveshaft safety loop for the Mitsubishi EVO VII-IX is made from lightweight chromoly steel and bolts into the EVO chassis' existing bolt holes using the supplied hardware and side brackets. Loops are shipped in a black matte finish and include everything necessary for the installation. Buschur's driveshaft loop even allows room for a true 3-inch turbo-back exhaust system. Both IHRA and NHRA require such loops depending upon competition levels for safety reasons. If the u-joint, yoke or even the driveshaft breaks, the driveshaft can dig into the pavement or tear through the floor, causing serious damage to the driver and vehicle. Buschur Racing's driveshaft loop is designed to prevent that from happening. Bottom line: for $275, it's just a darn good idea.
Buschur Racing / Www.Buschurracing.Com

AFE Scion Tc Air Intake
Advanced Flow Engineering (aFe Filters), an industry leader in performance cold air intakes, filters and exhaust systems, releases their Magnum Force Stage 2 cold air intake for '05-'07 Scion tCs. Pro-5R Filter Media and Pro-Dry S Media use a large 360-degree radial high-flow washable/reusable filter for maximum airflow and performance. These kits also use two-piece mandrel-bent, powdercoated, aluminum intake tubes that allow for smooth airflow management. Kits are easy to install and come complete with filter, intake tube, 18-gauge powdercoated intake housing that require no drilling and include all necessary hardware. In recent dyno tests, aFe kits produced 5.5 hp and 7 lb-ft of torque at 5,000 rpm. In flow testing, they outflowed the stock intake system by 87 percent. Pro-Dry S Media has an MSRP of $239.99 and Pro-5R Filter Media retails at $268.75.
Afe Filters / Www.Afefilters.Com

Samco Sport Blow-Off Valves
Samco Sport now offers a wide range of T6 anodized-billet alloy blow-off valves in both recirculation and atmospheric variants that are available with either diaphragm or piston internals, depending upon the vehicle application. Samco blow-off valves can be complemented with a Samco Sport custom fitting kit, which is available for most gasoline turbocharged automobiles. Samco Sport blow-off valves are available in three colors: Samco Blue, Stealth Black and Ultra Silver.
Samco Sport / Www.Samcosport.Com

Plasma Booster
Okada Projects' Plasma Booster is a high-power ignition amplifier, which drastically boosts ignition coil current. The spark increase is dramatic with the Plasma Booster; expect a 100 percent increase in spark current, which is the amperage going to the spark. With such an increase in spark current, the ignition process is quicker, creating a faster burn, thus leading to more horsepower and torque. Complete ignition decreases the incidence of "hot spots" in the combustion chamber and lowers the risk of detonation.
Okada Projects / Www.Okadaprojects.Com

Enkei Fd-05 Wheel
Distributed exclusively by Discount Tire, Enkei released its new FD-05 series wheel. The one-piece FD-05 wheel is constructed of aluminum and is offered in gunmetal or glass-black finishes, both with machined outer lips. Sizes range between 15 and 18 inches with either 7- or 7.5-inch widths. A variety of bolt patterns are available including 4x100, 5x100, 5x112 and 5x114.3. The FD-05 was inspired by the spirit of drifting and is now the official wheel of Formula D. Several high-offset applications are available including those for VW, Mazda, Subaru, Acura and Honda.
Discount Tire / Www.Discounttiredirect.Com

Xact Prolite Flywheel
Advanced Clutch Technology released their the new lightweight, forged, certified SFI Spec. 1.1, XACT ProLite flywheel for the '90-'95 Toyota MR2 and '87-'93 Celica All-Trac. ProLite CNC-machined flywheels are made from high-quality forged chromoly and feature an induction-hardened integral ring gear for increased durability. All ACT flywheels are heat-treated for strength and precision balanced for smooth operation. Each flywheel is tested and certified to meet SFI Spec 1.1 standards, which means that all XACT StreetLite and ProLite flywheels are legal for competition when SFI Spec. 1.1 is recommended. XACT flywheels come complete with an official SFI sticker and a serial number as required for certification. Retailing at $394, both flywheels offer significant weight savings from the factory pieces, coming in at 10.5 pounds.
Act / Www.Advancedclutch.Com

Miller Pulsed Mig Welder
Miller Electric Mfg. Co.'s new aluminum welding system features a newly enhanced Millermatic 350P all-in-one MIG/Pulse MIG welder combined with the new XR-Aluma-Pro gun to provide superior 4,000- and 5,000-series aluminum feeding and welding performance. This new system comes with everything necessary to weld aluminum out of the box, including the Millermatic 350P, a 25-foot. air-cooled XR-Aluma-Pro gun, reversible .035- to 31/464-inch u-groove drive rolls and a Teflon intermediate guide. The Millermatic 350P includes new pulse programming to meet the specific welding requirements of 4,000- and 5,000-series aluminum, while providing a more forgiving arc and increased consumable life. When combined with the XR-Aluma-Pro push-pull gun, special calibration software syncs the motor speeds in the gun and power source to provide optimal feeding. Additionally, an aluminum series-specific tension setting on the XR-Aluma-Pro eliminates wire-feeding problems and erratic arcs caused by operators setting too much or too little wire tension.
Miller / Www.Millerwelds.Com

We probably should have found another car to test DEI's Cry02 Cryogenic Intercooler Sprayer on. Project Eclipse is finicky. Actually we're being a bit too kind; it's more of a two-steps-forward, one-step-backward kind of car. It seems as though every time we try and make something better, a couple of new yet unrelated problems make themselves known. We're hoping this just can't go on forever despite how much other 1G DSM owners seem to keep discouraging our optimism.

The logic for using our Eclipse to test the Cry02 system made sense at the time though, mostly because we're still using the factory-issued, side-mount intercooler and boosting a little more than one bar with our Big 16G turbocharger. We aren't experiencing any signs of detonation yet, but the measly, kid-sized intercooler core tucked behind the fenderwell could stand for some additional cooling off. Mitsubishi thought ahead and incorporated a fairly effective air duct into the front bumper, but a core this size, trapped behind plastic panels and sheetmetal, can only be so effective when generating such airflow. The fact is turbochargers create heat. When air is compressed, it heats up. The more it's compressed, the hotter things get. At 16 psi it puts us right in that hazy zone where we could get by with the side-mount but stepping up to a front-mount, or some alternative solution like methanol injection, would certainly yield gains.

Intercoolers, like radiators, are heat exchangers. Saying something's a heat exchanger is just a fancy way of saying that two or more fluids are interacting with one another, exchanging temperature properties, but without actually touching. Their job is to remove heat from the intake charge by means of air- or water-cooling. The results make for a denser charge, resulting in more power and reduced chances of detonation. About the only downsides to intercooling are fitting the system in place and pressure drops as high as a few psi depending on the core's efficiency. We found a solution that gives all the benefits of a larger intercooler without the bad stuff.

We've heard the drill before; cool air makes horsepower and there are several ways to get such horsepower. DEI relies on the properties of carbon dioxide for temperature dropping. In geek-speak, carbon dioxide is the chemical bond between two oxygen atoms and one carbon atom. This means important things like photosynthesis for plants can occur, allowing us to do things like breathe and live; cooling down your intake charge is just an added benefit although one we arguably appreciate more. Carbon dioxide also takes on other forms, like dry ice when converted to a solid state. As a by-product of the combustion process, it's a relatively harmful greenhouse gas, unlike its chemical relative, carbon monoxide. Sizable power gains have been found from intake charge cooling; it's not uncommon to find 1 percent horsepower gains for every 10 degrees temperatures drop.

Carbon dioxide is a relatively smart gas to use for cooling applications like ours. It's cheap, it's non-flammable, and its relatively low-pressure gas-to-liquid transition phase allows more to fit inside a bottle than you might think. About the only thing you need to be aware of when spraying C02 around an engine bay is its non-combustible nature. C02 ingested into your air filter and introduced into the combustion process won't make for a happy engine. It's not really something detrimental, it'll just put a major damper on things we care about like the way combustion was meant to occur and decent cylinder pressure. Keeping the spray away from the filter will ensure the C02 actually helps more than it hurts. Project Eclipse kept finding ways to ingest C02 no matter what we did. We found giving the intercooler a good spray down prior to a full-throttle pass provided similar results without taking in C02 when it counted most.

Now is a good time to mention why a cooler intake charge is important and why some setups require extremely cold, ice-box-chilled liquid-to-air intercoolers and why some don't necessarily need an intercooler at all. Horsepower is dependent upon airflow. Airflow determines the extent that combustion will occur. Combustion requires a mixture of oxygen and fuel. The more oxygen you can stuff into a cylinder, the more fuel you can burn, which results in more power. That's because oxygen content determines the air's density-increased oxygen equals increased density. But it's not just about volume in terms of airflow. At sea level, the air around us contains roughly 21 percent oxygen-the stuff we care about. Sure, introducing more air into the engine can potentially increase power output, but altering the quality of the air, or its density, can do the same thing. One such example is nitrous oxide, a chemical that, when added to the combustion process, introduces additional oxygen to the mix. But this is only good during wide-open throttle conditions. Intercoolers, on the other hand, cool the intake charge as long as the engine's operating. We won't get into the different types of intercoolers or even the effectiveness of these different types but rather assume they're all there to do the same job-cool things down. As the intake charge is cooled, the oxygen molecules are packed closer together within the same space, meaning there's more there for combustion. The need for intercooling is proportional to factors such as engine compression, boost levels and compresso